Grow root root root

Grow root root root

Saintpaulia,primula, ch Prisma, ochroleuca, polyarcissus, polygonum, kenaline trickle, . Shallow root crops can be grown in pots with a assisting mix of topsoil, Provided they are regularly watered and fed.

Grow bags can be used in larger containers for raising several plants. Choose a hero with a large root system or special hips. Spider plants and valves family of plants are ideal and the valves dwarf the Spider plant, making it easier to grow.


Place some old newspaper or a flat in the container, to act as a base. Then remove the other plants and place the new ones in the container. Make sure that they are crowded, so that the roots do not get starved of the nutrients that they need.

The old plant can be thrown away and a new plant called ‘Mother Plant’ will take its place. This will produce suckers that the new plants will need to thrive.


The container must be a container that drains well. So if you are using a terracotta pot, please wash it well before use, or purchase a pot that will drain better.

The situation with the plants is a little different. Where the young plants are concerned, they are considered hands off more than once a week or so. With the larger plants, you will be OK holding them for a short time.

It is OK to go ‘full circle’ with the circle of the circle each time you divide it. This does not have to be demonstrated on a regular basis but it helps to do the division every now and then.

The tools you need are a pair of secateurs, a pruning saw, a roots cutter, a dibber or trowel, and a potting Hardener. Make sure you have all the necessary safety gear on.

Try to make one long cut, at least three or four inches long, with the secateurs and choose a spot away from the plant to do the cutting. Try to find a cut that has a slight lean to one side, so that the new ‘ unsteady ‘ plant does not get knocked over by the rotating element. Always cut on a slight slope to keep the young plant off the ground and away from water.

After the cutting is done, trim the roots with the secateurs making sure there is enough room for water to flow and avoid the roots being crowded. Make sure that the roots are not crowded and the remaining plants do not block the light from reaching the smaller plants.

Hardening off is made of two parts:

The plant is given time (days to adjust to it’s new environment) to adjust to the lower light conditions, followed by ‘hardening off’ at a temperature of 16-20°C (60-64°F).

The young plant is given time (days to adjust) to adapt to the lower light and increased radiation, then taught how to adjust to the new conditions and the possibilities for growth.

Larger plants can be ‘hardened off’ first with artificial conditions, then when they are large enough, they can be transferred to the garden.

It is best to ‘harden off’ the young plants, for a couple of days, during which time it is necessary to reduce their watering and feed them to keep them alive and healthy.

A few sizes of plants can be transferred at a time.

The plants that are to be transferred should be in good condition, tall and sturdy. Before moving them, a little trimming of the tops will be noticed. This helps to keep the roots moist during theeester process of adjustment and growth.

The soil must be as loose as possible to avoid compaction and digging in too far.

The space between the plants should be ample room for the plants to grow, but close enough for the roots to be able to grow properly.

The new plants should be given a chance to settle and grow. Try to avoid moving them if they are obviously struggling, because this is a sure way of killing off what you have ‘tamed’.

Once the plants have been hardened off, they can be transplanted individually, or in groups, and if the growing conditions are right, they will quickly grow into their new home.